Chicken Sotanghon (Filipino Chicken Soup With Glass Noodles)

Ingredients

For 8 servings

• •3 pounds (1.36 kg) chicken backs/carcass
• •3 pounds (1.36 kg) chicken quarters (approx 4)
• •1 head garlic cloves (about 1 ounce; 28 g), peeled and smashed
• •Vegetable trimmings from soup components below (see notes)
• •Diamond Crystal kosher salt for seasoning chicken, plus 2 1/2 teaspoons; for table salt, use half as much by volume
• •1 /4 cup (60 ml) rendered chicken fat and drippings reserved from preparing chicken stock above
• •1 /2 teaspoon annatto seeds or annatto powder
• •1 /2 medium red onion (4 ounces; 113 g), finely chopped, trimmings reserved for stock
• •5 cloves garlic, smashed and chopped
• •1 c. à soupe freshly ground black pepper
• •8 ounces carrot (226 g; about 2 medium carrots), peeled and julienned, trimmings reserved for stock
• •8 ounces Napa cabbage (226 g; about half a head), sliced into 2-inch thick chunks, trimmings reserved for stock
• •4 ounces (113 g) shiitake mushrooms, sliced 1/8-inch thick, trimmings reserved for stock
• •4 ounces (113 g) wood ear mushrooms, sliced 1/8-inch thick, trimmings reserved for stock
• •8 ounces (226 g) enoki mushrooms, separated and ends trimmed, trimmings reserved for stock
• •4 ounces (113 g) celery, thinly sliced, trimmings reserved for stock
• •1 c. à soupe plus 1/2 teaspoon Diamond Cystal kosher salt; for table salt, use half as much by volume
• •1 /2 cup (120 ml) fish sauce, divided
• •2 c. à soupe fried garlic , optional
• •1 scallion, finely chopped
• •6 ounces mung bean thread noodles (180 g)
• •12 quail eggs
• •1 c. à soupe (15 ml) white vinegar

Method

1. 1.For the Stock and Chicken: Adjust oven rack to middle position and preheat oven to 450°F (230°C). On a rimmed baking sheet, spread chicken backs or carcass pieces evenly and season liberally with salt. Roast until browned all over, flipping halfway through, 30 to 40 minutes total. Set aside, then pour the rendered fat from the sheet pan into a small bowl.
2. 2.Sprinkle chicken quarters all over with salt. In a large skillet, add 1 tablespoon oil and heat until shimmering.. Add chicken quarters to skillet, in batches if needed, and sear on both sides until browned, about 5 to 7 minutes. Transfer rendered chicken fat to bowl with the other chicken fat.
3. 3.In a large (8-quart) stockpot or Dutch oven, bring 5 quarts water to a boil over high heat. Add seared chicken quarters and 1 teaspoon salt to pot and lower heat to medium. Simmer, partially covered, until the chicken registers 175°F (80 °C) with a digital thermometer, 25 to 30 minutes. Use tongs to transfer chicken quarters to a cutting board and let cool, about 20 minutes. Using two forks or your fingers, shred the meat into bite-size pieces; reserve the bones and skin separately.
4. 4.To the pot with chicken stock, add vegetable trimmings, smashed garlic, reserved roasted chicken bones, reserved chicken quarter bones and skin, and 1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt . Bring to a boil, then reduce heat as needed to maintain a gentle simmer. Cook, partially covered, until reduced by about one-third (you should have about 3 quarts stock), 1 1/2 to 2 hours. Strain stock through a fine-mesh strainer set over another large (8-quart) pot. (Alternatively, use a spider skimmer to remove bones and skin from pot.) Discard bones. At this time, the stock can be refrigerated for up to 4 days or frozen for up to 2 months before preparing the soup.
5. 5.For the Soup: In a wok or large skillet, heat 1/4 cup reserved chicken fat over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add the annatto seeds or powder. Mix well until the oil is bright red-orange, 30 to 60 seconds. If using seeds, remove seeds with a slotted spoon and dispose of them. Add garlic, onions, 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt, and black pepper, and cook, stirring frequently, until browned, about 5 minutes.
6. 6.Add carrots and 2 tablespoons fish sauce. Cook until carrots are tender-crisp, stirring frequently, 3 to 4 minutes. Stir in reserved shredded chicken to combine. Transfer mixture to a bowl and set aside.
7. 7.In an 8-quart stockpot, bring the prepared chicken stock to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce heat to medium, and add shiitake and wood ear mushrooms, celery, and Napa cabbage. Simmer, partially covered, until vegetables are tender and cabbage is opaque, 10 to 15 minutes.
8. 8.Lower heat to low and add enoki mushrooms and the sautéed chicken and carrot mixture, and heat until warmed through. Add remaining 6 tablespoons fish sauce and salt incrementally to your desired salty/umami level.
9. 9.For the Noodles: Fill alarge saucepot, halfway with water and bring to a boil. Add noodles and boil until translucent, 3 to 4 minutes. Strain and run noodles under cold water to shock and stop cooking. Set aside.
10. 10.For the Quail Eggs (optional): Prepare an ice bath. Using now-empty saucepot, fill halfway with water, add vinegar, and bring to a boil. Once boiling, gently lower in eggs and gently simmer for 3 minutes for soft set, 5 minutes for medium, or 7 minutes for hard-boiled.
11. 11.Using a spider skimmer or slotted spoon, transfer eggs to prepared ice bath. Let cool, then peel. Set aside.
12. 12.For the Soup Assembly: Portion noodles into bowls. Spoon a hearty ladle of soup with chicken and veggies into each bowl.
13. 13.Garnish with fried garlic, if using, scallions, and eggs, if using.